PARIS – As the rapid rise in cases of the Omicron variant of COVID-19 in France casts uncertainty over January’s physical fashion calendar, the Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion has released its tentative calendar for men.
With 77 houses on the calendar, up from 72 last season, the fall 2022 calendar promises a bumper crop of 18 new names. While physical events, if any, remain to be confirmed, 42 shows and 35 presentations are scheduled between January 18 and 23.
The hottest ticket in town will undoubtedly be Vtmnts’ debut show, slated for January 21 at 7:30 p.m., including with Guram Gvasalia, co-founder, CEO and now creative director of Vetements, stating that “it’s time to” dare, do different things.
Launched as a new genderless brand with an ambitious manifesto that speaks of revolutionizing and redefining traditional luxury for the next generation, the new Zurich-based brand of Vetements debuted last July with 100 looks featuring codes. – bars and a cryptic series of numbers – 83 836 36 87 – shown mainly on male models.
Bianca Saunders’ debut is also expected. The winner of the 2021 ANDAM Fashion Prize will present for the first time in Paris on January 19 at 10 a.m.
“Being in Paris is what really gives you more international credibility,” the London-based designer told WWD in an interview where she revealed her five-year plan, which included working more in Paris and possibly relocating her. operation there.
Amiri, led by CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year Mike Amiri, will also make his scheduled debut; the Japanese brand Doublet, with its witty variations on themes as varied as world cuisine and zombies; The young and dynamic French duo Florentin Glémarec and Egonlab by Kévin Nompeix, winner of the Pierre Bergé Prize from ANDAM; Kidsuper, the streetwear brand inspired by the art of American designer Colm Dillane; Waterproof contemporary Danish lifestyle brand Rains and the cheerful sporty and utilitarian bohemian of Bluemarble.
On January 23, Kenzo will present the first collection of its new artistic director Nigo, pioneer of Japanese streetwear and founder of the cult brand A Bathing Ape.
New names on the presentation calendar are Lukhanyo Mdingi, who jointly won the Karl Lagerfeld Special Jury Prize at this year’s LVMH Prize along with Dillane and Rui Zhou; the American labels Airei and Winnie; Liberal Ministry of Youth; Taiwanese label Namesake, created by self-taught brothers Richard, Michael and Steve Hsieh; Singaporean design collective Youths in Baclava and French designer Steven Passaro.
French heritage eyewear brand Vuarnet, which recently appointed Parisian designer Boramy Viguier as artistic director, will also present its first comprehensive collection of technical clothing, a nod to mountaineering and expanding its limited clothing capsules over time. years.
South Korean brand Songzio is also returning to the French showcase calendar this season, while compatriot Solid Homme, designed by Woo Young Mi – who is also the founder and creative director of menswear brand Wooyoungmi, who will also be presented on time – comes to Paris after playing in Milan last season.
On January 20, Rick Owens, Louis Vuitton and Dries Van Noten turned up, with the Belgian designer at 3:30 p.m., while the American designer moved from 12:30 p.m. to 8 p.m., and the French luxury heavyweight from 2:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m.
Notable absentees from the preliminary schedule include Thom Browne, Burberry and JW Anderson.
As a footnote, the men’s calendar indicated that Paco Rabanne and Alaïa would unveil their rtw femme fall 2022 on the last menswear day, showing at 4:30 p.m. and 8:30 p.m. respectively, before the couture calendar begins.